... is downright ugly. During the day, that is. When the sun reflects off the bear tree branches and onto the grey buildings. Even the spectacular view, from the top of the imposing Kalemegdan, for centuries presiding over the confluence of the two rivers, is not enough to dispel the sense of winter decay.
But when the sun sets the city changes. It becomes alive under the orange glare of the lights. The cafés and the bars are full of people, young, old, it doesn't matter. They drink, eat, shout. A scenery full of energy. It's like winter is only there during the day. At night, it's summer all year round.